Saturday, June 21, 2008

Some South Africa Pictures

My new strategy for getting pictures online seems to be working ok, but very slow. Here's a few for you to enjoy.

Cape Town

The pile of rocks in the limestone quarry where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners on Robben Island dug for many years. He dropped the first rock on his first return to the island 5 years after being released, and the other former inmates who had also returned for the ceremony spontaneously followed and created this pile in the location where they started chipping away at the limestone.


Table Mountain at sunset (slightly out of focus, sorry, but I had to get something of Table Mountain up here)



Garden Route

Sunset along the Garden Route


Oh yeah!!!!


This picture is of the Bloukrans jump we did that I took from the lookout point. It's obviously not me - that guy has good form.


Cheers!
Dan

Friday, June 20, 2008

South Africa

Welcome to Africa

I had high hopes for South Africa, as it is considered a beacon for the rest of the continent during this time of "African Renaissance." If you contrast the reaction and development of South Africa (SA) to the disaster in neighboring Zimbabwe, you can see that terrific progress they have made.

My opportunity to see this first hand was thrilling. Not to mention I was finally starting my 9 month journey! And my first impressions were all positive. Upon arrival, I easily found a friendly, fair taxi driver who knew exactly where my hostel was and took me straight there. A good start and something that make arriving in a new country so much better. This service mostly continued wherever Tom and I went in the country.

Let me first apologize for not having any pictures here. The internet connections we've had have been either too unreliable or just too slow for me to make that happen. I will definitely try to catch up when things improve.

My current internet issues aside (I'm in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania now), many people point to "infrastructure" in developing countries to see if the next level of progress is possible. India, for example, has lovely people who work very hard, but fairly mediocre roads, trains, electricity service, etc. This will continue to hamper progress there for years to come.

I found things in SA to be much better than I expected - but not without some surprises. All major roads were excellent, with only a few sops for construction during our several day drive. A couple of those stops, however, lasted for 20-30 minutes. But there was at least a sign telling us that it would! Once you were outside the city and off the main road, things obviously weren't so ideal. But it's a good start!

The three airports we went to (Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, and Johannesburg) were modern and fairly efficient. Even getting out of Cape Town was incredibly simple, as we just hoped on the M2 from the street next to the car rental place and were outside the city limits in about 5 minutes! Of course, all this is viewed through the lens of low tourist season, I'm not sure what it would be like in the summer.

There are, of course, some negatives. Cape Town public transport is only buses, and tourists generally didn't seem to want to use them, which isn't the best approach for a city that looks set to grow significantly over then next 20 years. The power was out for almost a day in the sleepy coastal town of Storms River, but it came back on just after we arrived. (coincidence?!?) We heard reports on the local radio of four cows blocking a main intersection in Port Elizabeth, but never actually were caught in that particular jam. The improvements are getting noticed, however, as Cape Town was just ranked the best city to live in the Middle East and Africa by the Mercer World Wide Quality of Living survey.

Apartheid Recovery

The other important thing I wanted to understand was how South Africans have recovered from the horrors of apartheid. I feel like they are trying to do the same sort of race reconciliation in 20 years that American has been doing for 100 years. From what I can tell, it seems to be going well.

South Africans seem to be having an honest and open discussion about the rights and wrongs of different approaches, and are trying hard to make real strides. While I was there, Chinese South Africans were granted full equality with blacks "for the purpose of the employment equity and broad-based black economic empowerment legislation" (says the local newspaper) - this is basically South Africa's version of affirmative action. Why would they do this? Because the Chinese were also considered "colored" by the white rulers during apartheid, and oppressed almost as much as blacks (who were an additional degree of repressed, I learned later). It took years of lobbying for the Chinese South Africans to get this fairly obvious inclusion, but it is happening and there was no major public outcry from it. The "xenophobic" riots we feared and watched from 6,000 miles away were not to be found - in fact, we had a taxi driver proudly announce to us that he was from Zimbabwe, something I wouldn't have expected as the locals were openly targeting foreigners from nearby countries who are "stealing their jobs."

Better still, within this country that represents a beacon for all of Africa, there exists two beacons for SA - Nelson Mandela and Robben Island, the prison where he was held for much of his 17 year incarceration. Most people will know about South Africa's first democratically elected president, but I don't think as many know about Robben Island. It is an incredible symbol of the reconciliation being attempted in SA. When we arrived across the choppy seas on the ferry with every ticket sold at least a day in advance, we were giving a tour of the prison by a former inmate. Imagine spending many torturous year's of your life there, and then returning and reliving it several times a day for all the world. And it really was all the world - Tom and I heard about 12 far-flung countries announced when our guide asked the group (including Texas).

But what really struck me was that both former inmates AND guards live and work together on Robben Island. It's basically a small town that acts as a living, breathing example of how both sides can put aside past differences for a better future. I can't imagine a more inspiring example for young South Africans as they live through their own day-to-day struggle. It will also continue on beyond Nelson Mandela, something people are concerned about since he is such a strong and peaceful person. This is a way for the message of their struggle to live on.

The Garden Route

Of course, it wasn't all politics for me and Tom. We had a blast exploring the southern coast East of Cape Town, affectionately called the Garden Route. I've only been to a few wine regions in my travels so far, but I thought Stellenbosch and Franschhoek were terrific. The setting of Maui-like mountains in the background, with the price and friendly people made for an extremely enjoyable day.

After the wine regions, the highlights for us were a few chilled out backpacker hostels (especially in very mellow Swellendam), a terrific seafood platter lunch in Mosel Bay, and the thrill of the world's highest bungy jump at Bloukrans bridge. Without a doubt the scariest thing I've ever done - at 216 meters, this is the highest bridge in the southern hemisphere and the third highest in the world. It's really, really, really high. And, as you might expect, instead of the beautiful swan dive you are supposed to do, I basically crumbled at the knees with a feeling of impending doom. But my form kept as I fell, despite the less than brilliant start, and the DVD shows an exhilarated face summing up my feelings for South Africa - "That was f***ing amazing!!!"

Friday, June 13, 2008

There's a World Out There

London - 28 May 2008

I'm only a 30 second walk from my office in the City of London, but already things have been put into perspective. I'm learning that PR firms are experts at perspective:

PR Guy #1: "Your trip sounds great, but we need something unique to really sell it to the magazines. Are you doing any kind of big charity events along the way?"

Me: "Well, no, I don't have anything planned."

PR Guy #2: "Perhaps you are climbing the highest peaks of each continent?"

Me: "Nope. We thought about doing Kilimanjaro, but it is really expensive."

PRG #1: "Maybe some kind of 'fastest route' across whatever??"

Me: "No, sorry."

PRG #2: "So basically, you are just a fairly successful guy who is going to travel for 3-months, then work in the Hong Kong office for 3 months, then travel for a few more months. And simply return home at the end."

Me: "Yeah, that about sums it up."

PRG #1: "I'm not sure we can get that into GQ."


Here I thought I was about to embark on the trip of a lifetime, and I'm already learning that I'll be humbled at every turn. And after about 6 months of preparation, my journey is finally here.

The trip, and the reason I haven't written for a long time, is a sabbatical from my current job, a chance to experience vast parts of the world I haven't seen, and an opportunity for me to go 'the wrong way' around the world before returning back to my company in NY....doing....something, we aren't really sure yet.

The plan is split into three parts...

Part 1:
- Embark from London to Cape Town, South Africa (where I'm actually writing this from now!) and meet my friend Tom
- Head down the Garden Route to Port Elizabeth
- Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, and around
- Safari in the Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti
- Nariobi, Kenya, for a night
- Cairo, Egypt, and tour around there
- Athens, Greece, meet some friends to sail around the Cyclades for a week
- Istanbul, Turkey
- Tel Aviv, Israel, meet my friend Patricia, and see as much of Israel and Jordan as we can
- Dubai
- Bangkok, meet my friend James, and enjoy Thailand and Cambodia
- Beijing, meet my friend Nicole, and experience the sheer insanity that will be the Olympics
- Hong Kong in late August.

Part 2:
- Work for my company in Hong Kong. I'll be covering for a coworker on maternity leave. Don't ask how this got worked out - it was sheer luck I guess!
- Visit Japan, Vietnam, and a few other places in the area as best as I can to continue the ADVENTURE

Part 3:
- Sydney, Australia, at the end of November, and tour around Sydney and Melbourne
- New Zealand
- Los Angeles (um, California)...for a night
- New York, for two weeks around Christmas & New Year's
- Buenos Aires, Argentina, and south to Patagonia
- Chile
- Bolivia
- Peru
- Back to NY at the end of Feb 2009.


It's a big trip. I've been saving for a while, hoping that I'd find the right opportunity for something like this. But between wrapping up a major project at work (or trying to), attempting to find my replacement in a crazy market (apparently this was something I was supposed to do!), deciding where to go, for how long, and WHY....and then actually preparing....my time has been filled up to the brim.

I bought my first Round the World plane ticket, which will cover about 45,000 miles. I've been vaccinated against Polio, Tetanus, Diphtheria, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, Rabies, Yellow Fever, and Malaria (assuming I remember to take the pills). I will cover about 25 countries.


Cape Town - 14 June 2008

Tom and I have been anxiously following the news in our first stop, South Africa, where xenophobic riots had been spreading throughout the country.

http://www.theroot.com/id/46604

Our second destination was planned to be Zanzibar, the amazing spice island off Tanzania, but the whole island has been without power for a month, with at least several weeks to go.

http://africa.reuters.com/business/news/usnBAN523622.html

And shortly after, we are planning to stay in Nairobi, Kenya, where botched elections caused massive chaos and strife throughout the country. It has been getting better, and they are doing their best to push forward.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7447545.stm

A bit of an inauspicious start to the trip. But sitting here in the City Center of Cape Town, you only see a bit of this. Beautiful people with big sunglasses stroll down the street, dressed in their best 'winter' outfits. I have a light jacket on. It seems like a cross between San Diego's atmosphere and Rio De Janiero's surroundings. The contrast is clearly there however, and I'm sure we'll get to see more and more of it as we venture around. This is Africa, as they say.


So why the PR agency anyway? My friend Rich thinks the trip is an example of a growing trend of financial services employees who are leaving their jobs (often not voluntarily) and taking the chance to travel "the way they always wanted to." So he's offered to provide his company's 'virtual assistant' services in exchange for me being a small part of his marketing campaign focused on this trend during this difficult time in the financial markets.

But the PR guys just have to figure out if it's interesting enough to sell.